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Saltwater Aquarium Setup:
A Beginner Guide
1) First, you'll need a tank with ample lighting, and an efficient filter system. Reef-ready tanks are available, but one can maintain any tank with a sufficient filtration system.
a) For those desiring a smaller tank, all-in-one tanks (Biocube, Redsea Max, Aquapod, etc.) deliver, larger marine tanks usually have reef-ready equipment attached.
b) Filter: There are many options for mechanical filtration. For tanks up to 20 gallons, a hang-on filter is sufficient, but you must remove all freshwater-intended biological filtration media (bio-balls). (Larger tanks require a canister filter, protein skimmer, as well as a refugium/sump system, which will be described later.)
c) To keep corals you need both actinic (blue) and white light. SPS, or Small Polyp Stony corals need at least T5, metal halide, or LED lights. LPS, or Large Polyp Stony corals such as Acanthastrea, Chalice can survive with Power Compact flourescent lighting. Lights should be on around 10 hours a day. Fish do not require much light.
2) Now you need the essential elements of a marine environment, which are salt, water, live rock and sand.
a) Nutriseawater is a direct sample of seawater, already at an optimal salinity and has essential bacteria needed to launch a saltwater setup.
i. If you want to mix your own salt, save some money, then remember that the average salinity that is best for keeping fish and corals successfully is ~1.024.
b) Live rock is purchased at around ~$6 per pound. Pacific specimen like Fiji rock is more porous, while Atlantic rock is rather dense. You'll need at least 1 lb./gal. for adequate biological filtration.
c) Next, you need live sand, that is sand with beneficial bacteria crawling around in it, which provides additional biological filtration. Crushed coral is a popular choice. Other options include fine sand, black sand, and no sand. Live sand reduces the need to cycle* when first establishing a saltwater aquarium.
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3) Now that you've got everything you need, start by adding the sand to the tank. A deeper sand bed has a larger anaerobic volume which is good for bacteria, given you don't stir it all the time.
4) Place a piece of live rock or a bowl on the substrate to minimize stirring of the sand bed when pouring in the saltwater.
5) Now add the rest of the live rock and aquascape your tank any way you want. Some fish and invertebrates need crevices to hide in and make a living, so keep that in mind.
6) Turn on filter and light. This includes protein skimmer if you've purchased a larger tank. Sump systems will be discussed in a future post.
*7) Cycling: (Step 7 is unnecessary if you've purchased live sand and live seawater.) Place a piece of raw shrimp in the tank. WAIT AT LEAST 2 WEEKS. Products such as BioSpira can accelerate this process of cycling. To know when cycling is complete, you will need to do nitrate level tests everyday because it will jump up noticeably high then drop and plateau. These test kits can be borrowed, found online or at your local fish store.
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Reminder: Patience is important when cycling. Keep doing nitrate checks to know when it has spiked, after which you can begin your aquatic endeavors. This way you get a great foundation and you don't waste money by rushing and having everything in the tank die.
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